The history of muslin is rich in tradition

Dhaka is one of the most beautiful city of Bangladesh. Its climate was once tolerable and healthy. The bazaars that existed here provided both essential and luxury goods everywhere, so Dhaka was a vibrant and rich city even 400 years ago. Traders here used to import significant amounts of gold and silver from Assam in exchange for betel nuts, betel trees, coconuts, and cloth. The people of Dhaka used to export the country’s main staple products to the Magads of Arakan.

According to the accounts of companies and private owners, the total amount of textile exports in 1747 was 850,000,000. In 1792 this amount was twenty five lakh taka, in 1797 it was fourteen lakh taka, in 1800 it was eighteen lakh taka. In the last 50 years, the volume of textile exports by local and other traders has decreased. Due to the quality and promotion of European products, the demand for Dhaka’s popular and valuable muslin began to decline.

However, the ability of this country to export goods abroad has always been extensive. During the years mentioned above, the French and Dutch trade ceased altogether. At the end of the Mughal period and the beginning of our period, the interest of foreigners in Indian manufactures was immense.

The cotton from which muslin is made is produced in our country in large quantities, and its quality is superior to that of cotton in other parts of the world. It is believed that the best cotton is grown in areas flooded by the Ganges every year. Seeds are sown in October and November and harvested in April and May. The cotton plant grows three to four feet tall and can be cultivated on the same land for two to three consecutive years. In the fourth year, the land is abandoned or some other crop is grown.

Coarse or coarse yarn is spun on the spinning wheel, when finer yarn is required it is spun on the spindle. For example, a weaver at Sonargaon records 88 yards of fine yarn weighing more than two grains (1/7000 lb; equal to one troy grain or 64.799 mg). The finer yarns now available will weigh at least 70 grains of the same length. The precious muslins used for royal dress usually weighed between 1800 grains.

At that time, the monthly wage of a weaver was 3 shillings (Shilling or shilling is the currency of Great Britain or the unit of currency). The monthly salary for day laborers was 1 shilling 6 pence. During the reign of Nawab Mohammad Reza Khan, a yard of Jamdani or flowered muslin cost about 40 shillings. However, it began to decline after the Mughal period.

Sir Max Edgar Lucien Mallowan (Sir Max Edgar Lucien Mallowan) is said to be the father of Asariyya. “Babylonians and Assyrians: Life” was written by a British researcher. The books “And Customs” and “Ancient Empires of the East” are seminal works on the history of Mesopotamia. Muslin is mentioned in both these books. Sir Mallowan writes – Muslin was exported to Babylonia about three years before the birth of Christ.

Evidence has been found that muslin was used in the royal palace of the famous Babylonian king Ur-Bagus during that period. Not only Babylonian Muslims went to Egypt or its surrounding countries,

The color of the muslin was white. But ancient Egyptians dipped it in gray-blue dye to wrap mummies. Following the words of British archaeologists JE Taylor, Sir Leonard Woolley, and Reginald Campbell Thompson, Sir Malowan says that Ur was the largest city in the world at that time. “Indus cloth” or muslin was available there. King Ur-Bagas was the builder of the city of Ur.

Among the priceless artifacts recovered from palaces, temples, and tombs excavated from 1922-1934, a list engraved on copper is found in which muslin is mentioned, albeit under a different name. Muslin is also mentioned in “Kautilya’s Arthashastra,” written three hundred years before the birth of Christ. Here, the production of “Swetam Snigdham Dukalam” refers to the country of Bengal. “Dukulam” means cloth.

There are many opinions about the naming of muslin. In ancient times, trade with the subcontinent was done by sea. The goods exported from the subcontinent to Egypt, Persia, and other Arab countries mainly came from the port of Maslipatnam in South India. Many people think that muslin is named after this Maslipatnam. According to many, the export of muslin by sea ceased due to increased persecution by pirates.

Muslin was then exported by land to Mosul in Mesopotamia (now Iraq). At that time, high-quality cloth was also produced in Mosul. The fabric produced in this region was called “Mosul.” But whatever the name or reason, the demand for this cloth once spread across Europe. Ordinary people, except royalty and wealthy merchants, were not lucky enough to wear expensive clothes.

However, a cheaper type of muslin was produced in Dhaka. There was a lot of commercial demand for it. 18 types of muslin are mentioned in the history of the Mughal period. These are Malmalkhas, Jhuna, Rang, Sarkar Ali, Khasa, Shabnam, Abarwan, Albale, Tunjeb, Tarandam, Badankhas, Saraband, Sarabati, Kumis, Duriya, Charkhana and Jamdani. Of all muslins, Malmalkhasa is the best. This cloth was so fine that the whole cloth could be pulled out through one ring.

This muslin was used for the emperors of Delhi. A piece of soft muslin ten yards long and one yard wide weighed 8 tolas 6 annas. Separate people were kept at Sonargaon to supervise the preparation of Malmalkhas. Its duty was performed by a constable. He had a keen eye to maintain the quality of the cloth.

“Jhuna” was described by Europeans as a “heavenly and priceless” fabric. A piece of junk 20 yards long and 1 yard wide weighed 8 and a half ounces. An ancient Tibetan text called “Kulva” mentions an incident about “Jhuna”. Once, Kalingaraja sent a piece of fine muslin cloth to Kosalaraja as a gift. A priestess named “Gtsing Dgat-mo” somehow handed it over. Later, one day, when the priestess went out in public wearing that cloth, people insulted her as naked. Since then, the religion forbade priests and priestesses from wearing muslin. Jhuna was mainly made for dancers.

In ancient times, the Muslin name “Rang” was similar to “Jhuna”. The Nawabs and Subedars of Bengal sent various items as gifts to the Emperor of Delhi every year. “Sarkar Ali” muslin was sent. Shabnam means dew in French. There is a story that once this muslin was left to dry on the grass, the cow ate it thinking it was grass.

A piece of Shabnam one yard wide and twenty yards long weighed 10 to 13 ounces. In terms of quality, after Shabnam was “Abaroan”. “Ab” means water, and “Roan” means flow. The difference between water and cloth could not be understood if this muslin was kept with water. This muslin weighed 9 to 11 and a half ounces.

Regarding quality, Jamdani was at the end of the list of muslin. There were different types of Jamdani. Toradar, Karel, Butidar, Tercha, Jalbar, Pannahazar, Mel, Dablijal, Chawal, Duria, Geda, Saburga, etc. were notable.

During the Mughal period, muslin was on the list of women’s choice in the royal family. Empress Nur Jahan loved this cloth very much. Emperor Jahangir used to weave particular types of muslin for his wife from Dhaka. Once, the Shah of Iran took thirty yards of muslin in a coconut shell. The weight of which was only four to five tolas.

In an exhibition in England in 1862, Dhaka muslin took place alongside the cloth made by the Manchester mill. Doctor and writer James Forbes Watson said about the difference between the two cloths – “It has not been possible to make a cloth that can stand up to the cloth woven in the wind from Dhaka.”

Muslin was a favorite dress for both men and women. A painting of Shahzada Dara Shiko and his son Sulaiman Shiko, dressed in muslin, was found in 1665.

Muslin yarn was usually spun in cold weather. In summer, spinning was done before the sun rose. Most of the spinning and muslin weaving work was done by girls. This is because you have to pay a lot of attention to this weaving work. The one who weaves muslin was not allowed to go to the sun. This is because the fabric was damaged by body heat. Girls did this vital work because men could not follow this rule. Sometimes, this muslin was woven underwater.

In some areas on the banks of the Brahmaputra river, a type of cotton called footi was produced and used to make the best quality muslin. Besides, two other types of cotton, Bayrati, and Desi, were created in different areas of Dhaka. These cottons were used to make low-quality muslin. After weaving, high-quality muslin, sand, and clay are dug on the banks of the Brahmaputra, and clear water accumulates there. After making a muslin, it was soaked in lemon juice, so many lemon gardens were developed around Dhaka.

It could only be built in the world if Dhaka. So, Muslin is the only resource for Bangladesh and Dhaka. High-quality muslin was produced in Dhaka, Sonargaon, Siddhirganj, Dhamrai, and Demra. Jadunath Basak Lane, Tantibazar, Lalchand Mukim Lane, Mahajanpur, and Yoginagar were the main places where muslin was made in present-old Dhaka.

Even though muslin was such a valuable garment at that time, the financial status of the weavers could have been better. Especially in 1176, the artisans faced financial hardship during the famine of 1176. After that, many patriarchs left this profession and came to other occupations. The English wore kunjor on muslin. This ruling group began to promote the wearing of Manchester clothes. As a result, the muslin’s elasticity decreases. The British once stopped weaving muslin. History has it – the fingers of muslin artisans are amputated.

The famous sage Bholanath Chandra spoke about muslin. He came to Dhaka in 1843. Then he went out in search of muslin weavers. Muslin, Dhaka’s once renowned exportable product, was almost non-existent when exported to ancient Rome two thousand years ago. The period of most excellent excellence of muslin industry is the Mughal period. Muslin was on the list of favorites of European romantics.

The history of muslin is rich in tradition—a description of 18 types of muslin found in the Mughal period. “Jamdani” is one of them. “Jamdani” is Bangladesh’s first Geographical Indication or GI product. Muslin itself is recognized as the fourth geographical indication product.