We know that our skin acts as a powerful shield for the body, preventing harmful germs from entering while also expelling internal toxins through sweat. However, the skin can also be a gateway for internal treatment of our body.
Does this mean we can wear something that contributes to our healing through the skin?
Yes, modern medicine agrees with ancient medicinal practices. This article will discuss this in detail.
Clothing can be considered our second skin. Just as we need unadulterated and chemical-free food for our well-being, we also need organic or chemical-free clothing. Despite the evolution of global fashion, the advent of fast fashion, and the emergence of new trends making people more accustomed to low-cost synthetic fabric clothing, there is a revival of awareness about the protection of the environment and health. As a result, the use of various natural dyes and natural fabrics is increasing. Along with this, a new term has emerged in the textile industry called Ayurvastra or herbal textiles.
Surprised, right?
We are familiar with the terms Ayurvedic and herbal as an ancient branch of Indian medicine. It is also widely used in beauty care. However, not many people are familiar with the use of these herbal or Ayurvedic techniques in the textile industry.
Although it has been practiced as a branch of Ayurvedic science since ancient times, the concept of Ayurvastra or herbal textiles in modern fashion is still relatively new to the general public. Especially in Bangladesh, it is not yet known if its practice has started.
We are all somewhat familiar with natural dyes. Fabrics dyed with natural dyes have very soft colors, are durable, and long-lasting. Even after a long time, their beauty does not fade. This dyeing process from natural sources has no possibility of environmental pollution, and the waste derived from it can be used as ideal fertilizer. Currently, due to environmental awareness, its popularity is increasing globally.
While natural dyes are familiar and old, the concept of Ayurvastra or herbal textiles, though ancient for South Indians, is still a completely new idea to the general public. However, there is no doubt that it is adding a new dimension to the textile industry. Now people will be enthusiastic about wearing these Ayurvastra for their health and healing.
What is Ayurvastra or Herbal Textile?
The Sanskrit word ‘Ayur’ means life, and some also interpret it as health, while ‘Vastra’ means clothing. Hence, Ayurvastra can be referred to as ‘healthy clothing.’
Ayurvastra has been a branch of Ayurvedic science for thousands of years, said to be part of India’s Vedic health practices for about 5000 years. It is still prevalent in India’s traditional handloom weaving industry, and efforts are being made to increase its popularity by raising awareness among people. Ayurvastra is made from 100% artificial fiber-free and chemical-free materials, making it environmentally friendly and highly beneficial for the human body and skin, even acting as a cure for various diseases.
To create Ayurvastra, certified organic cotton, jute, natural silk, and other natural fabrics are dyed using extracts from medicinal herbs and plants such as turmeric, cinnamon, neem, and mulberry.
Since ancient times, members of the royal families in South India have used Ayurvastra for their health and medical treatments. When our skin comes into contact with such herbal clothing, it acts as a treatment gateway and helps prevent and cure numerous diseases like diabetes, allergic skin infections, asthma, arthritis, and high blood pressure. Additionally, Ayurvastra helps balance the body’s internal metabolism and strengthens the immune system.
What is the Difference Between Herbal Textile Dyeing and Vegetable Dyeing?
When textile fabric is dyed with extracts obtained from medicinal plants and herbs, it is called herbal textile dyeing. No chemicals are used in this process.
However, in the case of vegetable dyeing, some chemical substances such as copper sulfate and ferrous sulfate are used as catalysts. This is why herbal dyeing differs from vegetable dyeing, as it provides additional medicinal benefits without harmful chemicals.
The dyes used in herbal textiles are not only natural but also medicinally beneficial. They are processed entirely in an herbal way without any chemical exposure. Even the bleaching of the fabric is done naturally by exposure to sunlight, ensuring that the herbal or medicinal properties remain intact in the clothing.
What are Herbs?
Herbs are fibrous, aromatic, medicinally beneficial plants or plant components. They are generally used as spices in culinary arts, for fragrance, or as home remedies for illnesses.
Different herbs have different benefits and functions. Hence, herbal textiles bring numerous health benefits and can fight against diseases like high blood pressure, heart disease, asthma, and diabetes. Ayurvastra dyed with indigo extract is already proven to aid in disease prevention; turmeric can relieve pain and improve skin health; and sandalwood acts as a stress reliever. Other herbal dye sources include pomegranate, tamarind, madder, castor oil, basil, wild turmeric, henna, curry leaves, aloe vera, and various other herbal fruits.
The sources of natural dyes for textiles are the various parts of small and large plants and herbal plants, including leaves, roots, stems, fruits, seeds, etc.
Herbal Ingredients Used in the Textile Industry
Turmeric
Turmeric and ginger belong to the same plant family. In our country, turmeric is used in cooking for color, taste, and aroma. It is an integral part of South Asian cuisine. Turmeric has also been used in skincare for centuries. Besides its use as a spice, turmeric has various other uses, including dyeing yarn or fabric, painting, and printing on fabric.
Indigo
Indigo is the most widely used plant for textile dyeing. The commercial indigo powder we see is made from the leaves of the Indigofera tinctoria plant. This type of indigo thrives in hot, humid, and sunny environments.
Madder
This creeper with small yellow flowers and leaves may not seem impressive, but it holds nature’s profound mysteries. The roots of madder contain alizarin, producing the most valuable bright red dye.
Onion
Onion, a commonly used spice in cooking, has its peel as one of the cheapest yet essential dyeing ingredients. Various shades of orange, yellow, rust, and brown can be obtained from onion peels.
Manjistha
The roots of the manjistha plant produce a reddish dye. Its herbal properties purify the blood, increase dopamine hormone secretion, reduce anxiety, depression, and mood swings, lower hypertension, and prevent bacteria and other germs from entering the body.
Sandalwood
The fragrant, heavy yellow powder of sandalwood is very popular for use in skincare, cosmetics, and perfumes. This wood is not ordinary; its fragrance can last up to ten years. It produces red, pink, copper, and brown colors and their various shades, used in herbal textile dyeing. Sandalwood-dyed fabrics provide a cooling sensation when worn.
Neem
Neem-dyed fabrics help cure various skin problems and prevent bacteria and germs.
Pomegranate
The juicy pomegranate fruit produces an orange-yellow dye, also used in herbal dyeing.
Ramacham Plant
This plant is also used in Ayurvedic or herbal textile dyeing. It is known to cure asthma. In Ayurveda, it is famous for its cooling properties, used to treat fever and various skin problems.
Other plants like tulsi, aloe vera, henna leaves, and many more herbs are used for herbal textile dyeing.
Potential of Ayurvastra or Herbal Textiles
Due to increased environmental and health awareness, various countries are imposing restrictions on chemical dyeing. As a result, the demand for and use of dyes derived from medicinal or herbal plants is growing. Natural dyeing with herbal extracts involves no chemicals, causes no chemical reactions, and the materials can be sourced from renewable resources. The fabric dyed with these dyes is biodegradable and possesses healing properties. Such textiles are 100% safe and chemical-free, which is why the market for Ayurvastra is gradually expanding.
Herbal textiles or Ayurvastra are environmentally friendly because they primarily use organic cotton fabric. Organic cotton refers to cotton grown without the use of any chemicals or fertilizers, produced entirely naturally with natural fertilizers. This organic cotton is 100% environmentally friendly, and when combined with various herbs’ medicinal properties through herbal dyeing, the garments become health-promoting and disease-preventing.
The global market for Ayurvedic services is expanding. Its market size was 1,170 million dollars in 2017, which is projected to reach 2,850 million dollars by 2025. Currently, various fashion houses in India are aiming to capitalize on this opportunity to secure a place in the global market with Ayurvastra.
Benefits of Ayurvastra
Ayurvastra helps alleviate skin allergies, itching, blisters, rashes, and discomfort, providing a soothing feeling. Organic fibers, such as cotton, jute, and other plant-derived fibers, are used to make Ayurvastra fabrics. During the cultivation of these fibers, no fertilizers or chemicals are used. The fabrics are woven on handlooms. This entirely organic and natural production process results in lower carbon emissions, reduced energy consumption, and less greenhouse gas emission.
Organic cotton used in Ayurvastra is not grown from genetically modified seeds. By following completely eco-friendly methods, there is no health risk to the workers, and it prevents waste of water and electricity, avoiding exposure to toxic gases or chemical reactions.
Stringent testing ensures the absence of toxic contaminants like nickel, lead, formaldehyde, amines, pesticides, and heavy metals. For those with skin allergies who cannot wear synthetic clothing, herbal garments or Ayurvastra made from organic fibers are highly beneficial.
Children are at a higher risk from pesticide-related health hazards. Millions of children in the United States, by the age of five, are exposed to 35% of the carcinogenic pesticides they will encounter in their lifetime through various food, beverages, and household items. Therefore, increasing the production and use of organic fiber and herbal-dyed Ayurvastra can significantly reduce such health risks.
Organic farming methods improve soil fertility. The demand and production of organic cotton and other organic fibers are increasing. Water is conserved significantly. The textile industry is now concerned about water wastage. Cotton cultivation requires a lot of water, which is harmful to regions suffering from water scarcity. However, organic cotton farming positively impacts the land, reducing soil acidity, improving soil structure, preventing erosion, and avoiding many damages. Additionally, the water used for herbal dyeing can be reused, preventing wastage.
Earthworms are known as natural plows. Organic farming promotes the growth of beneficial organisms and microorganisms in the soil, resulting in better yields.
Production Process of Herbal Textile or Ayurvastra
The entire process of making herbal textiles or Ayurvastra is 100% organic. Plant-based textile fibers are grown organically, animal fibers are processed organically, fabrics are woven on handlooms, and fibers or fabrics are dyed with various herbal extracts without any chemicals.
Several steps are involved in the herbal dyeing process to transform the colorless yarn or fabric into vibrant hues. Certified organic cotton, natural cotton, jute, hemp, wool, linen, silk, and their blends are used to make Ayurvastra.
The different stages of Ayurvastra production are as follows
Desizing
Grey or colorless fabric is washed in mineral water or natural mineral-rich water mixed with sea salt to remove sizing, oils, glues, or starch used during weaving.
Bleaching
To bleach the fabric, it is first exposed to direct sunlight and then bleached using biodegradable natural cleaners and surfactants such as soap nuts (Sapindus Mukorossi), soap pod (Acacia Sinuata), etc.
Mordanting
Natural mordants such as haritaki, amla, baheda extract, rhubarb leaves, oils, minerals, alum, cinchona bark (Symplocos racemosa), ebony tree (Diospyrose ebenum), etc., are used to enhance the brightness and fastness of the fabric. However, mordants like copper, chrome, zinc, tin, etc., are not used due to environmental concerns.
Dyeing
Dyeing is one of the most important stages in Ayurvastra production. This stage involves dyeing the organic yarn or fabric with various medicinal and herbal ingredients, carefully creating a dye mixture that imparts healing properties according to the intended treatment.
A careful blend of natural sources such as fruits, flowers, bark, leaves, roots, and peels is used to create the desired color.
The dye mixture’s temperature, the amount and number of herbal ingredients, the time the fabric absorbs the dye, and all other tools used in the process are meticulously controlled.
Herbal ingredients are directly applied to the fabric naturally to maintain their medicinal properties.
Various shades of red, yellow, brown, orange, green, etc., can be prepared using these herbal ingredients.
After dyeing, the medicated fabric is cooled, repeatedly washed to remove any excess, and dried in the shade.
Finishing
The finishing process after herbal dyeing is also done entirely organically. The fabric is sprinkled with pure water and stretched using aloe vera and castor oil through hand rolls.
Recycling Residue
The entire Ayurvastra production process is organic, ensuring no environmental pollution, unlike synthetic dyeing. Solid and liquid waste generated during the process is separated through purification processes and used as organic fertilizer in agricultural fields and irrigation. Additionally, biogas can also be produced from this waste.
Uses of Ayurvastra
The most effective time to use Ayurvastra is during rest, such as sleep or meditation. During these times, the body naturally heals and reorganizes its physical balance. The skin is the largest organ of the body, releasing internal toxins through sweat and allowing various substances to enter the body. Regular clothing often contains harmful chemicals and toxins that can be absorbed through the skin. In contrast, Ayurvastra, being chemical-free, naturally strengthens the skin and prevents harmful chemicals and toxins from entering the body, while its herbal properties make the skin disease-resistant.
Hence, herbal textiles are used to make items that stay in contact with the skin for a longer time during rest, such as bed sheets, underwear, towels, meditation clothing, blankets, night dresses, etc., to allow the herbal properties to be absorbed effectively over a long time. Additionally, herbal textiles are now used to make carpets, mattresses, rugs, coir mats, etc., where the fibers are first soaked in herbal dye mixtures before being woven.
Ayurvastra in the Global Market
The demand for Ayurvastra is growing, albeit slowly. Given that Ayurvedic practices have been used in India for ancient times for treatment, beauty, and clothing, the market for Ayurvastra is currently thriving in India, with increasing production and demand. Similarly, the practice and popularity of Ayurvedic and herbal products are not insignificant in Bangladesh. Therefore, there is a good opportunity to create a potential market for Ayurvastra in our country as well.
Due to its association with physical benefits and its effectiveness in strengthening the immune system, various Ayurvedic treatment centers in India are advising their patients to use Ayurvastra for a healthy lifestyle. Additionally, India’s Handloom Weavers’ Development Society is producing various home textiles using Ayurvedic fabrics. They manufacture and export various Ayurvastra items, such as sarees, bed sheets, and other clothing, to the United States, Italy, Singapore, the United Kingdom, Malaysia, Jordan, Germany, Taiwan, and Saudi Arabia. Due to its growing demand, some online shops have also started selling Ayurvastra.
The state and central governments of India are promoting Ayurvastra because it will increase the demand for handloom weaving and create a special market for eco-friendly clothing.
Challenges of Ayurvastra
In this modern technological era, reliance on nature for anything is not an easy task because nature is beyond our control. Many things depend on weather and seasonal changes. Ayurvastra is entirely produced using ancient and natural methods, thus relying on sunlight and other natural ingredients that change with nature’s fluctuations.
There are also limitations in creating natural and Ayurvedic dyes since it is not possible to produce all shades of all colors with these materials, and some colors can easily fade in sunlight.
Those involved in the textile industry and producers may not easily switch from synthetic dyeing methods to natural or herbal dyeing processes because it entirely depends on customer demand. Increasing customer demand in this sector is a significant challenge. Only customer demand can include Ayurvastra as a branch of the textile sector as an environmentally friendly and healthy method.
Potential of Ayurvastra in Bangladesh
Ayurvastra originated in ancient India. Given that Bangladesh is a neighboring country with deep mutual relationships in terms of history, culture, and tradition, the practice, use, and demand for herbal or Ayurvedic products have been significant in Bangladesh since ancient times and still exist. However, it has not yet reached the textile sector. Therefore, there is a new opportunity and potential for evolution in this direction.
Since Bangladesh is an agricultural country, the herbal plants used in Ayurvastra dyeing and various processes can be produced in large quantities here. If abundant raw materials for Ayurvastra can be produced, it will become readily available and accessible, helping to keep Ayurvastra within the purchasing power of the general public.
To produce Ayurvastra in our country and create a market for it, what is most needed is government and private patronage, sufficient research, and proper promotion to reach the masses.
Research is needed to find ways to produce Ayurvastra using our country’s own resources. Government and private patronage are necessary to make it competitive with other sectors of the textile industry. And, of course, to create demand, it must be effectively promoted and introduced to the general public, emphasizing its unique qualities.
Social media, especially Facebook, is the easiest medium for promoting Ayurvastra. It just requires some dedicated individuals who will continuously write about Ayurvastra, create various content, and promote it on Facebook and online media without worrying about profit and loss.
Since there is a market for vegetable-dyed clothing in our country, it is also possible to create a demand for Ayurvastra. If initiatives to produce Ayurvastra in our country are taken, it will undoubtedly create an opportunity to export to the global market. We also have an e-commerce community for local products, and the E-Commerce Development Center works on research and promotion related to local products. Therefore, this is undoubtedly a new and significant opportunity for us.
Another aspect is that the market for Ayurvastra can be developed around children’s clothing and fashion. Children have sensitive skin, and since their immune systems are weaker, they are more likely to suffer from various viral and bacterial attacks. Ayurvastra can be a great solution for children’s comfort and cure. Parents also prioritize comfortable clothing for their children. Synthetic clothing can be very harmful to children. Therefore, if children’s clothing is given priority, it is expected that the Ayurvastra market will capture the market more quickly.
Conclusion
Ayurvastra is quite effective in maintaining and restoring the body’s balance and strengthening the immune system. Tested antimicrobial and various medicinal herb materials are used in it. Therefore, it is expected that wearing and using these clothes will help the body combat diseases like high blood pressure, heart disease, arthritis, asthma, diabetes, etc.
The waste produced in making Ayurvastra can also be reused to increase soil fertility. Therefore, overall, it is an organic method that contributes to our peace of mind. In this age of environmental awareness and health consciousness, there is immense potential for increasing the demand and popularity of Ayurvastra in both our country’s and the global market.
Thinking of Ayurvedic textiles in this way is indeed a very commendable task. A very unique topic for all of us. By herbal I usually understand about make-up but after reading this article I got to know details about this type of textile. A very positive article for those who are wearing or will do in the future. I especially like to know about herbal dyeing. I love and use natural dyed fabrics.
You clearly highlighted the fact that there is immense potential in the Ayurvedic textile sector of Bangladesh. We as mothers are very conscious about the use of children’s clothes. In that case you have shared great information about Ayurvedic for kids. Eco-friendly clothing is good for everyone from kids to adults. Thanks for the important article.